Question:

Our wedding bands and sterling silver jewelry has been changing to a dull black after soaking in the hot tub on many occasions. I use Brilliance chlorine to maintain my tub. What would cause this as the chlorine level is fine? Is there a chemical that I am lacking or something I may have in my water causing this?

Response: 

Sterling silver is one of those metals that can tarnish very easily.  If your gold wedding bands are tarnishing as well, that definitely tells me that you have a water imbalance.  Get your pH (7.4 - 7.6), total alkalinity (125 - 150 ppm) & calcium hardness (175 - 200 ppm) adjusted.  With the water being out of balance, other metals such as iron & copper are going to affect your jewelry as well.

Water balance is just as important as chlorine or sanitizer level.  It sort of is a little more important in that good water balance affects the efficiency of the sanitizer AND directly affects the spa's surfaces & equipment looks & life.  Just because the water looks clear & clean, doesn't mean that it is well balanced.

Get those levels properly adjusted & you can almost guarantee that you won't have that problem with your jewelry again.

Question:

We have a repetitive problem with our spa heated by a propane heater. Reddish brown copper stains repeatedly are occurring. The ph has been low and they are trying to balance it but it's very difficult. It does seem like the copper heater coils are being degraded in the heater. Stains are now difficult to remove from the spa. What would you suggest?

Response:

I wanted to get back to you ASAP.  The most important thing you can do is get the water in balance FAST.  Water balance means pH (7.4 - 7.6), total alkalinity (125 to 140 ppm) & calcium hardness (about 200 ppm).

Until the TA & CH is adjusted & corrected, it's going to be difficult to adjust & maintain the pH.  While making the balancing adjustments, it wouldn't hurt to add a little extra SpaGuard Stain & Scale Control to take care of the excess metals (iron & copper) that have been deposited into the water from the corroding heater core.

It may be wise to drain & refill & start fresh AND BALANCE THE WATER!!

The real bad news is that you'll probably need to replace the heater sooner than later.  I know this is water under the bridge but don't rely on "clear water".  Always test the water at least twice a week. Maintain those levels. 

Question:

I have worked at a retail pool and spa store and have taken care of the water maintenance of one pool and two spas for a year and a half.  In that year and a half, I haven't had any problem I couldn't fix with one chemical or another.  I have found a problem that has me totally frustrated.  One of the spas we keep water in consistently has a green tint to it. I have tried granular ph decreasers and they haven't touched the green tint.  The only thing that seems to remove the green is adding muriatic acid.  This definitely lowers the ph but you have to add so much that I bet the ph levels are down in the 5's or 6's.  Then when you try to add an increasing product, the green tint returns.  Even with just a 2 ounce application.  You can't even attempt to raise the ph.  So then off course you have very corrosive water.  It only seems to be happening to the spas we put in one particular location in the store.  We have tried changing spas thinking maybe there was something wrong with the spa itself, but it has happened with every spa we have put there.  Do you have any suggestions?  It would be greatly appreciated.

Response:

More than anything else, it sounds as if you've gotten into a real problem with corrosive water & therefore metals.  Particularly copper from the spas' heaters. 

Before adding any chlorine or bromine, I would recommend doing this:
1. Add a double dosage of Stain & Scale Control.
2.  Balance the water.
3.  DO NOT add chlorine, bromine or any sanitizer or oxidizer for at least 3 days.

It sounds as if the copper and any other metals aren't having a chance to be thoroughly chelated.  Keep in mind that the copper could be coming from the pipes supplying the source or fill water, especially if they are older.

Question:

Hope you can help me, I have called four different spa companies concerning my screw up and everyone gives me a different answer.  I added the calcium hardness and the spa sentry and got a big mess.  I have an oily mess on my filters and along the fill line, what should I do now, should I drain and refill and replace the filters?  If I use the filter degreaser on the filters will it remove the oil on the filters or should I just throw those away?   

Response:

First, whenever you use SpaGuard Spa Sentry, don't use calcium hardness increaser.  The Spa Sentry is only going to take it out of solution & make the water cloudy.  The best thing is to drain & refill.  Use the Spa Sentry but forget about the CH.  Only use Spa Sentry when freshly filling the spa after a drain & clean AND only after balancing the pH & Total Alkalinity.

Now, with the filter, SpaGuard Filter Cleaner should do a good job cleaning up the oils.  If the cartridge is older than 2 years, toss it & get a new one.  A good product to use to help keep the filter clean AND the waterline free from build ups is SpaGuard Natural Enzyme.  A couple of ounces per week will help "eat" up the greases & oils from bathers.  During the summer when people are going from tanning to soaking, it's just a good idea to shower off the skin products before going into the spa.  Reapply them when you go back into the sun.

Whenever you drain the spa, consider using Spa System Flush or Swirl Away to rid the plumbing lines of accumulations of "stuff". 

Follow Up Question:

Thank you so much for you help, I will do just that and start over.  I will remember to keep this website handy.  It is good to have someone answer your question and tell you where to go from there.  Should I use the spa System Flush at this point or can I just drain now and start over?

Follow Up Response:

Using the System Flush would be a good idea.  If you can get it locally, by all means, do it.  If not, we can get it out to you in a couple of days, and then use it next time you drain & refill. 

Question:

I have a hot tub, but have let myself run out of Total Alkalinity Increaser.  I have called several local Chemical stores and they only carry Alkalinity increaser for pools.  They both stated that it would work in my hot tub, because it was exactly the same stuff.  Is this true?  If not what is the difference.

Response:

Although the product may work and it is most likely the same ingredients, the labeling on the package is different.  One is for pools, one for spas & tubs.

Here's the issue:  if you use pool products in your spa, you're not using the product according to its specifications.  If a friend or family gets hurt or becomes ill in your spa, YOU are liable.  You didn't use the product correctly.  On top of that, the store you purchased it from KNOWINGLY sold you a product that was not going to be used for its specific purpose.  They're even more liable.  The bottom line is that you've got to use the right products for the particular application for liability reasons.

That's the round about answer.  If you would like to make life simpler so that you don't have to worry about pH & total alkalinity for a couple of months at a time, take a look at SpaGuard Spa Sentry.  After adjusting the pH & total alkalinity in the spa or hot tub, add 1 qt SpaGuard Spa Sentry per 500 gallons (1/2 qt. for 250 gallons or less).  That's it, your set for about 2 to 3 months.  This is especially great for when you change the water.

Question:

My wife and have a 500 gallon Elite by Maax Spa.  We use the spa about once a week.  I check the chemical balance about three times a week, and make corrections (with the filter on) as needed.  I shock the spa with a non-chlorine shock, as we use bromine tablets.  I change the water about once every four months, and I have now started to clean the filter out every two weeks or so.

 Here are some questions:

1.  When putting an anti-foam agent in the spa, is it necessary for bathers to be out of the spa?

2.  Sometimes, after I have put a few squirts of the anti-foam agent in the spa, my wife notices some bubbles collecting that look to be dirty.  I notice some hairs collecting as well.  Is this caused by the anti-foaming agent?  Or is it that we notice this thing after the foaming subsides, which is almost instantaneously?  These bubbles are concentrated near where my wife is, which I think indicates that the lotions or other things that she has on her body are being collected and moved to the filter.

3.  What water replacement routine would you recommend, given the usage as indicated above?

Response:

The short answer is ONLY using antifoam when the spa really needs it.  Really needs it means "beer head" which typically appears only when the water is so icky, it needs to be changed.

If the water is properly balanced (pH 7.4 - 7.6, total alkalinity 125 - 150 ppm, calcium hardness about 200 ppm), foaming should normally not occur. Soft water (CH under 175 ppm) adds to foaming.  Now, if you use the spa with a lot of body stuff on (oils, lotions, etc)   un-filterables will build up & foaming will develop sooner.  Showering before using the spa is always a good idea.

"Dirty" bubbles are "normal" because the antifoam is breaking the surface tension & any oils that are floating on top.  I also wouldn't (believe it or not) recommend cleaning the filter more than every 5 or 6 weeks.  The "dirtier" (to a degree) a filter is the finer particle it will filter.

The antifoam is not "hazardous" to bathers.

As far as your regular maintenance schedule goes, it sounds as if you have a good timetable.  With 500 gallons, used once or twice a week, 4 months is good.  As an added step, I would recommend using SpaGuard Natural Enzyme about every 2 weeks to "eat up" un-filterables. That will further help & prevent the foaming situation.

Follow Up Question:

We are not noticing foaming, in the sense of “beer-head” foam.  This is more like bubbling.  Is this normal, or should we expect that there will no bubbles in the spa (this question sounds almost self-explanatory, but bear with me).  I will adjust my filter cleaning regimen as per your guidance.  As for the SpaGuard Natural Enzyme product, can it be purchased at stores here in California, or do we have to order it online? 

Follow Up Response:

Bubbling is very normal.  Foaming, like shampoo lather or beer head, is a sign that the water is either needing to be changed or close to it due to the build up of stuff (non-filterable waste) in the water. 

As far as the Natural Enzyme goes, you'll need to look for a SpaGuard dealer in your area or you can order it online from us.  Orders normally ship the same day & you will receive your products in about a week's time.

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